“Nothing we have achieved together will be lost, I swear … I will keep a memory of the immense love that I have always felt for you and for Castile“
This is how Ferdinand said goodbye to Isabela just before he passed away, however, Isabela’s death meant for the King the greatest work that could come to him in this life … the mission of keeping the kingdoms of Castile and Aragon united.
Unfortunate marriages, deaths and illnesses … were some of the misfortunes that describe the lives of the children of Isabela and Ferdinand and ended up diverting the future of the Kingdoms of Castile and Aragon.
Misfortune after misfortune in the lives of the children of the Catholic Monarchs, Isabela always tried to prevent a foreign king taking over the crown of Castile and that her daughter Joanna, married to Philip “The Handsome”, was used by a sick love that dominated her.
The illness of Queen Isabela I of Castile progressed very rapidly and in her will, she named her husband Ferdinand II of Aragon regent of Castile until Charles, her grandson, reached the age of majority to govern, but the lack of support among the nobility of Castile and the arrival of Philip “The Handsome” (Habsburg house) left the Castilian court in a very delicate situation, so Ferdinand reacted and tried to break the promise he swore to Isabela.
Joanna I of Castile, had once again demonstrated her incapacity for government, and her attitude was so anomalous that until her last days, her family sincerely feared that she was possessed by devil.
Joanna’s symptoms of dementia led Philip “The Handsome” to take direct charge of the Kingdom of Castile, alleging the mental incapacity of his wife.
This inability of Joanna I of Castile faced Ferdinand and Philip.
But the reign of Philip “The Handsome” was very brief, he was the first king of the Austrian dynasty, he settled in Castile to reign and died before becoming king of Aragon. In the town of Castile it did not take long to suspect that Fernando had poisoned his son-in-law, but historians and modern research point out that the most possible cause was The Plague, a disease that had appeared in Burgos a few months earlier.
Joanna, during her husband’s funeral procession, showed that her mental health had suffered even more and Ferdinand locked up his daughter in the Convent of Tordesillas, and he assumed the regency until 1507.
Joanna never reigned, but maintained until today, the title of Queen of Castile, the true sovereign.
Ferdinand, despite the love he kept for Isabela, remarried a year after the death of the Queen, on October 19th, 1505 to neutralize the French threat looking for an heir and thus protect his legacy, Aragon, Naples and Sicily. Ferdinand, 53, married Germaine of Foix, 18 years old, niece of the French King Louis XII.
In the pacts with the King of France, the King granted his niece the dynastic rights of the Kingdom of Naples and granted Ferdinand and the couple’s descendants the symbolic title of King of Jerusalem. In exchange, the Catholic King promised to name heir of the throne to their descendant, thus removing the Austrians from government.
This marriage created doubts among the nobles of Castile and the Habsburg dynasty, a traditional enemy of the French Monarchy, since they interpreted it as a maneuver by Ferdinand the Catholic to prevent the son of Philip “The Handsome”, Charles I, from inheriting the Crown of Aragon and thus separating what had cost so much to unite: the Kingdoms of Castile and Aragon.
The important thing was that, as a result of this new marriage, a boy child had to be born. However, Ferdinand’s advanced age was not going to make it easy …
Ferdinand turned to natural medicine and found the cantharides, a green beetle that once dead, dried and reduced to powder, was used in infusion as a vasodilator substance, whose effects are very similar to those produced by «viagra». The abuse of this aphrodisiac substance had a bad end causing serious episodes of congestion to the monarch, which led to a cerebral hemorrhage and without any offspring with Germana.
The king died on January 23, 1516, at 63 years of age, in Madrigalejo (Cáceres) being his last words:
“Forgive me Isabela … Because I wanted to break the promise I made you … but God with great judgment has not allowed me”
Perhaps a new heir would have changed history, but the truth is that after so many games and pacts between Castile and Aragon, the one who finally ruled was Charles, emperor of the Holy Roman Empire.
Do you want to know how Charles became King and Emperor?
Obviously we start with Granada, how could it be otherwise 😉, because it also has enough attractions to consider spending more than one night in the city.
The world-famous Alhambra is the most visited monument in Spain and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In high season tickets tend to sell out easily, so it is advisable to book well in advance and pay close attention to the time of access to Nasrid Palaces because you have to access this area with a margin of 30 minutes above the time indicated on our ticket will not deny access …
But, as I say, Granada has much more to offer and these are other of its attractions:
The Albaicin neighborhood (although I like the “Albayzin” spelling better) and its cobbled streets with numerous viewpoints to sit, talk and admire the views of the city and the Alhambra.
The Sacromonte is a time tunnel. Walking through this neighborhood at noon, on a sunny autumn day, is one of the most pleasant sensations I can remember.
The Cathedral and the Royal Chapel, in addition to showing us their splendid architecture, remind us of the importance that Granada always had for the Catholic Monarchs, as a symbol of the culmination of their Reconquest.
The Alpujarras and the Tropical Coast. They are two perfect getaways to spend a day away from the madding crowd and relax in the mountains or the sea … because both are an hour’s drive from the capital.
2. Sevilla
It is the capital of Andalucia and is full of neighborhoods, parks and monuments to walk around and discover. It is always said that “Seville has a special color” paraphrasing a famous flamenco song … and it is in fact a charming city, without a doubt …
The sites not to be missed, when visiting Seville, are:
The Cathedral is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world and has been declared an Asset of Outstanding Universal Value. It contains an impressive collection of works of art with special mention to the Main Altarpiece, which is the largest in Christendom.
The Giralda is the bell tower of the Cathedral and one of the most privileged watchtowers of Seville to photograph the historic center of the city from a bird’s eye view. It is an Almohad tower, inspired by those of Rabat or Marrakech.
The Alcazar is the residence of the king during his visits to the Andalusian capital. It is the most visited monument in the city and was chosen for its unique beauty as the setting for the famous “Game of Thrones” series.
The Santa Cruz neighborhood is the ideal place to make a stop to eat at any of the many restaurants that we will find. In addition, the neighborhood is full of souvenir shops and cafes.
In the Maria Luisa Park we can have a rest while we take a pleasant walk and it also has an area with aquatic birds that is highly recommended if we travel with children.
And finally, before sunset, the finishing touch will be the Plaza de España. It symbolizes the embrace of Spain to Latin America and has also been the scene of such famous films as Lawrence of Arabia or The Attack of the Clones.
3. Córdoba
It was the capital of the Umayyad Caliphate in the period of maximum political, cultural and commercial splendor of Al-Andalus. And this has evidently left a very important historical and monumental legacy in the city of Córdoba.
These are the places of greatest interest when visiting:
The Cathedral of Córdoba is simply impressive. Its hall, with 856 columns and 365 red and white horseshoe arches, is undoubtedly a world-renowned symbol of the city.
The Alcazar of the Christian Kings is also a must-see to stroll through its magnificent gardens while we learn about its many uses throughout history: Residence of the Catholic Monarchs, headquarters of the Inquisition, prison, …
The Jewish Quarter and its flower-filled patios are the perfect walk to end the morning with lunch at one of its taverns or restaurants. We recommend trying the Cordovan flamenquín as well as its famous salmorejo.
In the afternoon we can take a walk to the other side of the Roman Bridge to take some spectacular photos with the sunset from this other perspective.
4. Malaga
Malaga is the perfect city to combine a day of sun and culture. Because in addition to being a famous beach destination in Andalusia, it also has numerous museums and very remarkable historical monuments.
The Picasso Museum is open daily and has about 300 works by this genius from Malaga who wanted part of his work to be in his hometown.
The Pompidou Center in Malaga is one of the headquarters in France. The cube in which it is located is already very interesting at an architectural level, but it also has a multidisciplinary exhibition that is most interesting.
The Carmen Thyssen Museum is a unique opportunity to contemplate paintings by Goya, Fortuny, Picasso … as well as strolling through the 16th century building that houses the museum.
On a monumental level, you must not miss the Cathedral, which is one of the Renaissance jewels of Andalucia, as well as the Gibralfaro Castle, which was once the most important fortress in Malaga and which offers impressive views of the city and its port.
5. The Caminito del Rey
Without leaving the city of Malaga, we can take this natural route that is one of the most spectacular in Andalusia and that was also restored and put back into service in 2015.
It became one of the most dangerous mountain trails in the world back in 2000, until it was renovated and it is now completely safe. Being able to make visits with a mountain guide lasting about three hours through this gorge at more than 100 meters high.
Of course … you have to think about it because once the tour has started there is no going back because it is one-way! The route extends for 3 km and the walkway is 1 meter wide.
An adventure for those who want to enjoy and improve themselves!
6. NerjaCaves
This is without a doubt a perfect experience for families with children.
In addition to visiting the town of Nerja (my favorite on the Costa del Sol) we will have the opportunity to go up to Maro and visit this cave classified as an Asset of Cultural Interest since 2006, which has numerous cave paintings and the largest stalactite in the world with a height 33 meters.
The cave was discovered by chance in the year 1959 by a group of young people from the town who came to the area to hunt bats.
The walk inside the cave lasts about 45 minutes and in summer it is the most pleasant … because the temperature inside does not exceed 21 degrees.
It is advisable to book your tickets in advance because there are usually queues to enter, although you can also buy them directly at the ticket offices upon arrival.
7. Sierra Nevada y las Alpujarras
During the winter, the ski resort has 105 km of ski slopes available and in summer it becomes an ideal getaway to take refuge from the heat of Granada and spend a day in the mountains visiting Sierra Nevada and the villages of the Alpujarras.
Sierra Nevada is the highest mountain range in Spain, with more than twenty peaks above 3,000 meters. It is never too hot in this mountainous region (even in summer) and, above all, it is the perfect place to enjoy the more authentic and less touristy side of Andalusia. The towns of the Alpujarras are famous for their picturesque character and have maintained their Moorish aesthetic over time.
It is a perfect location for hiking in the mountains and practicing adventure sports such as climbing, paragliding, mountain biking or horse riding.
Nature, crafts and gastronomy … a perfect combination for this experience to become a guaranteed success!
8. Ubeda y Baeza
Two beautiful towns that often escape the usual tourist route that only includes the Granada-Seville-Córdoba triangle.
We recommend visiting Ubeda and Baeza (province of Jaén), because they are two sites declared World Heritage by UNESCO, with an exceptional Renaissance legacy and that offer a beautiful walk through their streets full of history and architecture on all four sides.
Located between infinite olive groves and located only 8 km apart, the two towns have maintained all their charm over the centuries and are quite different from the rest of the traditional Andalusian white villages.
These are the most prominent places in Úbeda:
The Sacred Chapel of El Salvador: a true jewel of the Spanish Renaissance
The Palace of Vazquez de Molina, today City Hall
The Palace of Dean Ortega, built in the 16th century
The Basilica of Santa Maria de los Reales Alcazares
And the must-sees in Baeza:
Visit the cathedral of Baeza
Discover the Jabalquinto palace
Go see the church of San Juan
Walk through the Plaza del Populo
9. The Tabernasdesert
We move to the province of Almería, where the largest arid desert in Europe is located.
With less than 250 mm of rain per year and average temperatures above 17º, visiting Tabernas is the closest thing to stepping on the lunar surface …
A breathtaking landscape due to its aridity and desolation, which has been the scene of numerous films, especially the so-called Spaghetti Western, such as “The Good, the Bad and the Ugly” or “A Handful of Dollars”. Other famous films such as “Lawrence of Arabia” and “Indiana Jones” were also shot there.
In Tabernas, you must visit Fort Bravo (also called Texas Hollywwod). It was one of the towns built to serve as the setting for an American West movie, and it remained as it is afterward. You can visit the salon and even watch a duel between the sheriff and a bandit!
To learn more about it, we can organize a private visit to the Tabernas desert with an expert guide in the area who will instruct you about its characteristic flora and fauna, mainly with regard to the birds and reptiles that inhabit it.
10. Cabo de Gata and Natural Park in Nijar
We should not leave the province of Almería without first visiting its two famous natural parks.
The Cabo de Gata Natural Park is the largest coastal and terrestrial protected area in the entire Mediterranean region. Of volcanic origin, it offers various types of landscapes ranging from beautiful beaches and coves to wilder desert-style landscapes.
Some of the activities that we can do in this unique natural setting:
Hiking one of the many marked trails
Scuba diving
Boat
Bathing in one of its famous beaches of fine sand and crystal clear water such as Las Salinas or Los Muertos
Birdwatching (mainly flamingos) in Las Salinas
Explore the small fishing villages of Las Negras or San José, which are also the ideal place to enjoy an excellent lunch with local products from the sea and the land …
11. Marbella
If you like exclusivity, then Marbella is the perfect place for you!
This luxury destination located on the Costa del Sol has everything you dream of: 27 km of beaches, prestigious villas, top brand shops, cafes and luxury nightclubs. Marbella is a very famous party destination for tourists who want to observe and experience the so-called “jet-set” up close.
To take a look at all this luxury, you can go to the marina of Puerto Banús where some of the most luxurious yachts in the world are docked, some of which we can rent for an average price of 300€ for two hours rental.
During the summer, celebrities from all over the world visit Marbella to enjoy the beaches and nightlife.
In addition to all this glitz and glamor, Marbella also has a charming historic center with white houses typical of the Andalusian coast.
If you choose to enjoy an afternoon on the beach, the best is Cabopino or Dunas de Artola. It is protected from the wind and has shallow and crystal clear waters.
12. Gibraltar
And the last suggestion is for those who would like to visit a piece of the UK in southern Andalucia …
A two-hour drive from Malaga and we reach the border that separates Spain from Gibraltar.
Suddenly we will feel like in the south of England, with signs in English, the typical red telephone boxes and English style buses and of course English pubs. Gibraltar also has its own currency: the Gibraltar pound, equivalent to the British pound so you will have to change your Euros upon arrival.
A must do in Gibraltar is the Rock Tour. It can be reached on foot, by car or by cable car and these are the most outstanding attractions:
Cave of San Miguel: It was used as a hospital during World War II. Today, you can attend sound and light shows.
The famous monkeys! There are more than 200 monkeys walking freely on the rock. Be careful with your belongings and do not bring food.
The Great Siege tunnels carved into the rock.
The Castle of the Moors, built in the 13th century by the Meriní dynasty, of Berber origin.
The city of Granada, since time immemorial, has stood out for its crafts, being a reflection of the different cultures that have passed through throughout history, leaving an important legacy of artisans in the Alhambra and Granada.
One of the most deeply rooted cultures in Granada was the Muslim Nasrid, as is the case with inlaid, fajalauza pottery or the quality of its luthery, to mention some of the most relevant trades.
This mixture of cultures has given rise to a multitude of artisan trades reflecting their traditions, customs and versatility.
Taracea
The taracea (a marquetry technique) is the Granada handicraft that best represents us, as it reflects the influence of the Alhambra.
The name comes from the Arabic word Tarxia, which means inlay.
This technique consists of forming geometric figures or stars by embedding in the wood various types of fairy woods such as mahogany, ebony, palo santo, walnut, fruit tree woods, as well as bone, silver and metals.
The designs are the same as those used in the 14th and 15th centuries to decorate furniture, ceilings and doors in the Alhambra.
There are two types of finishes for the pieces, the traditional “crankpin” which is matte, and the polyester with gloss.
Today this technique still exists in only two places in the world: Damascus and Granada.
We this technique we can find jewelers, music boxes, trays, furniture, frames, trunks, chess boards and other more modern items such as magnets and ham holders.
Fajalauzapottery
Granada pottery is of Moorish origin.
The name Fajalauza comes from one of the gates in the old Granada wall that protected the potters’ neighborhood in the Albaicin.
It has reached our days characterized by its green and blue colors.
Also known for decorations and plant motifs such as birds and the presence of the pomegranates as a symbol of the city.
Manila Shawls
The origin of shawls dates back to 600 BC. when Chinese women of upper classes wore this kind of shawls.
In Andalusia, as in Seville, Cordoba and Granada, floral motifs are the best known.
The shawls stand out for the embroidery of the rose and in Christian symbols it refers to the Passion of Christ. In Granada, on the Corpus Christi Festival it is very common to see women dressed in shawls.
As a general rule, shawls are made of natural silk, although we can find another material such as crepe. There are many traditional shops in Granada that elaborate Manila shawls.
The shawl is more beautiful with the fringes, it is usually made by hand, even in those shawls that are machine, the work of this consists of knotting natural silk threads.
Mantillas
The mantilla is a piece of tulle embroidered with a very fine thread, which is the one that is filling in the drawing that is outlined in the tulle.
As a general rule, the decorations of the mantillas usually have floral motifs.
The hours of work to make a piece of craftsmanship of this level are many.
The ladies who have spent their whole lives embroidering mantillas in Granada often have eye problems, losing sight and suffering from tired eyesight.
It is increasingly difficult to find authentic Spanish mantillas made by hand, because fewer and fewer people want to dedicate themselves to this trade, but in Granada we can still find traditional artists who enjoy the personal satisfaction of making these garments so that family and friends wear them on the most special occasions.
Guitars
Granada is where the largest number of leading guitar masters in the world can be found.
Great figures from Granada related to guitar making are geniuses of the stature of Andres Segovia and Angel Barrios.
The Granada school, along with the Madrid school, is the best in the world: the best world stars who interpret music want their guitars to be made in Granada, like Sting for example.
Today Granada and Madrid are, without doubt, the guitar capitals of Spain.
There is no other place in the world where so many good guitar makers can be found as those who occupy the workshops of Granada.
The construction process begins with the selection of the wood and ends, after months of quiet effort, in the hands of the most important guitar players in the world.
Even the climate affects the production of the guitar and apparently the one we have in Granada is ideal for its construction.
Moroccan leather goods and crafts
The artisan trade of leather goods also has a wide range of shops in the city, many of them can be found in the Alcaicería de Granada, a souk full of shops and in Calderería street, better known as Calle de las Teterías (Street of Teahouses), even in the ascent of the Alhambra by the Gomerez street.
In addition to tea shops, restaurants and pastry shops with delicious Arabic sweets, it is full of shops with artisan products, most of them from Morocco such as leather bags, clothes, lamps, jewelry and costume jewelery, souvenirs …
In the lower Albaicín there are several artisan shops where you can find this product, which recalls the Andalusian Granada.
Back combs
The comb or tile is the main complement of the mantilla.
Its use became widespread in the last century because it favored and somehow dressed women’s face.
Bullfighters used them (in a smaller size) to gather the ponytail, since at that time the bullfighter wore his long hair gathered in a braid that rolled and held the comb. In Granada, during the Corpus Christi festivity, bullfighters can be seen with the comb during the bullfight.
Originally, the combs or tiles were made with Hawksbill turtles, but to avoid the total extinction of this species, shell combs began to be replaced by others made of synthetic materials.
Figures for Nativity scenes
The custom of representing the birth of Jesus Christ with figures originated in the Middle Ages.
The first Nativity scene is due to Saint Francis of Assisi, who in 1223 celebrated Christmas mass in a cave in Italy.
Carlos III was the one who brought this tradition from Italy to Spain since he had been King of Naples.
The Alcaicería de Granada is a typical neighborhood of Muslim culture, formed by narrow streets around which houses were lined and the souk or market where silk was manufactured and sold was located.
Nowadays, in addition to being a tourist reference point, you can find an infinity of Arab handicraft products, remembering and taking the visitor to the streets of the Arab bazaars and you can even meet the artisans who still create the Nativity Scene figurines so many years after their first elaboration.
It is the best preserved Muslim palatine city in the world. A fortress started to be built in the 13th century and which has miraculously survived to this day to show us its impressive palaces and gardens that were once wandered by the Nasrid monarchs. Every year it receives more than 3.5 million visitors and, being one of the most visited monuments in the world, it is advisable to buy the ticket, or book a guided tour that includes it, well in advance to be able to choose, without problem, the access time to the Nasrid Palaces that suits us the best.
2.San Nicolas viewpoint
This viewpoint, which is located in the upper part of the Albaicín neighborhood, is known worldwide for its incredible views of the Alhambra and Sierra Nevada. The best time to visit is, as we can see in the image, at sunset because we will have the best sunlight conditions to get the best pictures. In addition, former US President Bill Clinton described it in 1997 as the most beautiful sunset in the world!
3. Tapas bars in Granada
Going out for tapas in Granada is the most common among locals themselves and there is even a competition between those who value quantity versus those who prefer the quality of tapas. Every year a “Granada de Tapas” tapas contest is organized where a jury chooses those tapas with the best flavor as well as the most original. Our favorite area to go out for tapas is Plaza Nueva and the Realejo neighborhood … although it is already known that there’s no accounting for taste…
4.Cathedral of the Incarnation
It is the culmination of the so-called Reconquest and its construction began in 1505. It is located where the Great Mosque of Granada or Aljama Mosque was located. It is one of the main works of the Spanish Renaissance, but it was never finished because a problem with the foundation of the building prevented the completion of the towers that Diego de Siloé initially planned. To highlight: Its imposing Main Chapel.
5.The Royal Chapel
The simple fact of knowing that the remains of the Catholic Monarchs rest here, make your visit a must. When visiting the mausoleums of the kings, the impeccable Carrara marble with which they were made is overwhelming. In addition, we can see the personal collection of flemish paintings of Elizabeth the Catholic, as well as original personal objects such as the crown of Elizabeth I and the sword of Ferdinand II.
6.The Paseo de los Tristes
So called because the funeral processions passed through this street on their way to the San Jose cemetery, located on the same hill as the Alhambra, known as La Sabika. His real name is Padre Manjon. It is perhaps the most romantic street in Granada, located at the foot of the Alhambra and with numerous terraces to enjoy the views while having a snack and being entertained by the many artists and street musicians always acting in the area.
7.Hammam Al-Andalus
They are fundamental in the social life of Arab culture and in Granada we have the opportunity to relax and enjoy these Arab baths that have successfully recreated the atmosphere of a hammam, in which, in addition to performing thermal contrast baths (at style of the Roman baths) while we have a delicious tea, we can also hire a massage with aromatic essences. An experience to forget about the world outside for a while!
8.The Carthusian Monastery
It is an authentic baroque marvel, which, being located on the outskirts of the city, in what was an old Arab carmen called Aynadamar, sometimes escapes the usual tourist route. But everyone, who finally visits it, is fascinated by the beauty of its High Altar and Sacristy. Its construction lasted more than three centuries and it is also very interesting to learn more about the peculiar Order of the Carthusians.
9. San Jeronimo Monastery
Another architectural jewel that we can enjoy in Granada, this time of Renaissance style, where the remains of Gonzalo Fernández de Córdoba, the Great Captain of the Catholic Monarchs, also rest. A man who was a key piece during the Reconquest. Its construction marked a turning point in which the Middle Ages came to an end as the Modern Age began, and a light that illuminated the artistic and urban style of Granada in the following decades.
10.The Sacromonte quarter
Strolling through the Sacromonte is like traveling back in time, one has the feeling that the clock is stopping and in every corner we have a new opportunity to photograph the Alhambra from this other perspective that seems taken from another era. At night we will have the opportunity to visit one of its caves and enjoy a “zambra” – from the Arabic zamra (flute) -, a flamenco song and dance, that was born directly in the Sacromonte, inspired by Muslim weddings.
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